She’s the one…or the second or third or fourth

9 Feb

My husband stammered an excuse when I answered my cell phone. He’d be late again.

I knew why he’d be late. He was with her.  I’d caught him lookng at her photo on the computer.  She was long and sleek, 34 years old,  and cute as hell.

 Even better, she’d been kept in a barn.

I’m not sure when I became a sailboat widow, but it must have started sometime after I read one of those pop-psychology improve-your-marriage books. The best way to build a happy marriage, the author claimed, was to find out your mate’s biggest dream in life — and support it.

Easy enough. He loved boats and lakes. I loved the Caribbean and the outdoors. Very meld-able. In our entire marriage, his biggest non-necessity purchase had been a nice slalom ski, so I figured I owed it to him to take on a boating hobby.

That was five boats ago.

Actually, if you count the fishing boat and little Larson runabout we already owned, and if you add his kayak (which, would you believe, has a hull number) then he actually owns six boats. He sold the 77 Trojan cabin cruiser, so I can’t count that one.  Let’s review:

-77 Sunbird sailboat, which he’s claiming is so small, we can haul all around the state with my Honda Accord,

-94 Larson runabout,

-84 Catalina 22 Sailboat,

-94 Maxum Cabin Cruiser, the only boat I’ve agreed to sleep on.

Notice the commonality here? OLD. Know what that means? WORK.

I ought to write a letter to that psychologist guy and give him a few pointers. For a happy marriage, find out your partner’s passion and do everything you can to support it…as long as the hobby doesn’t float.

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I’m Leaping….”Where on Earth?”

21 Jan

I humbly, giddily, excitedly announce that my first literary nonfiction/travel essay, Should Have Gone to Annandale,  made it to the top 10 in an international writing contest sponsored by Leap Local.

The story was a tightly condensed, significantly altered version of the “Machetes and Mayhem” about Grenada blog posted here last summer. The contest’s strict word count requirement forced me to squeeze and whittle the original tale to half  its length. Forgotten details emerged and morphed the story into a lesson I’d originally missed. 

But that’s not all.  The story was published yesterday in Leap Local’s new online magazine, Where on Earth?

Yep, I’m beside myself and bragging unabashedly.

Please check out www.leaplocal.org – it’s one of the best sustainable tourism sites around. Also check out traveler, editor, humorist, actress and all-around witty person, Kirsten Koza. She and writer Gary Buslik guided me through the process of making it all happen.

Here’s the direct link to my story, but check out the entire magazine, other stories and fantastic panel of judges too:

http://www.leaplocal.org/magazine/culture-maze/grenada-christine-reifeiss/

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Where’s Christine?

13 Jan

Yep. I promised you a blog story every month.

What’s up? you may ask. Writer’s block? Too busy sipping a rum punch on the beach to write something?

Not at all. My writer’s notebook is brimming with ideas — margins filled with scribbles, some shakily written from my attempt to capture ideas while idling at a stoplight. Even my work calendar bears the scars of my overactive writer’s mind, and I fear co-workers will come across my scribbled reminders and fear for my mental health. Back road beer in Cayman! Ferry gone, beach bed! Monkey feet guy!

Ironically, my little experiment with freelance writing has exceeded my expectations. (I have an exciting announcement coming next week!) And that’s plunged me into the manic world of writing. When things go well for a new writer, they briefly believe they’re a Hemingway-in-the-rough. (Maybe I could write a book and forget this unpaid blogging stuff, the hyper brain screams to the writer.) Then the smallest error (I changed tense in that story three times? Really?) or grammar error (what’s a dangling participle again? And am I supposed to put these thoughts in parenthesis or em dashes or italics or both, and where the heck did I put that AP stylebook?) plunges the new writer into thinking they’re really not even good enough for blog writing.

At least, hypothetically, that’s how the new writer might feel….

So yes, I’ve been writing, but behind the scenes, and studying, and reading and practicing.

More coming soon.

Visions of Columbus

8 Nov

Today, I stood in the shoes of Columbus.

The Nina and Pinta – in the form of true-to-life replicas of Columbus’ sailing ships – traveled an unlikely course down the Arkansas River this week, allowing residents in Pine Bluff, Little Rock and Northwest Arkansas to scurry along wooden bows in a rare glimpse of history.

This recreation project stemmed from a 1986 initiative of the British Virgin Island-based Columbus Foundation. Frankly, the building of this ship is every bit intriguing as the ships herself.  According to the foundation,  engineer John Patrick Sarsfield, a maritime historian trained in 15th Century ship building techniques designed Nina while living in Valenca, Brazil. The location allowed for traditional ship building tools including axes, hand saws and chisels for molding wooden ships.

Sarsfield was killed in a traffic accident as he traveled to choose a mast for the ship. A solemn brass plate on display at the helm dedicates the Nina’s completion to Sarsfield.

Sarsfield’s fate seems reminiscent of many tales of maritime tragedy, boatyard accidents and freak incidents surrounding boating lore.  How the original Nina – a miniscule ship in comparison to what I’d imagined from school books – successfully navigated through the Caribbean defies belief.

 Standing on the deck of the replica Nina, watching storm clouds above Little Rock’s Main Street bridge, I  try to imagine I’m  viewing the same skies as ancient explorers, but I know it’s not true.  I can leave the dock of my sailboat when the NOAH weather radio’s monotone voice warns of showers and thunderstorms. I can plan my one-day sailboat charter along the dotted virgin islands, never out of sight of land.  I can leave the Nina and head home as thunderstorms roll into Arkansas, shrouding the ship’s journey in thunderheads reminiscent of ancient Atlantic squalls.

For more information, visit www.thenina.com

How to Carry A Cou

12 Oct

So I’m heading back to Grenada on Friday, this time to a sleepy island just north of the big island, but still part of the nation of Grenada called Carriacou. That’s pronounced carry – a – cou, or so I remember from my 2010 trip.

This time I’m not hearing the jokes about Grenada (remember “Grenada, that’ll be a blast!”?) Instead, my friends size me up hesitantly when I announce where I’m vacationing, uncertain whether I’ve discovered some remote Caribbean island of which they’ve never heard or if I simply don’t know the correct pronunciation for Curacao — a more frequently traversed Caribbean isle.

Gone are my 2010 fears about Grenada’s safety (it’s one of the safer Caribbean destinations) and remoteness (they are embracing tourism) and political strife (most Grenadians love Americans.) This year I’ll board my flight with a distinctly new set of fears. Will my healing-but-still-broken-toe hold up against hiking?  Will I find anything I can write about, perhaps generating a short story or magazine article? Will Islands Magazine call me out of the blue, ask me to write a fantastic story about Grenadian culture and food, but I won’t be able to find anyone to interview?

What a difference a year makes.

Talk to you from Carriacou.

Use Your Head

30 Aug

The day I learned to burn poop, I was sipping a wine spritzer aboard Southern Lifestyles, the houseboat of a real estate developer.

The spritzer had reached my bladder, and I squirmed to nudge my husband. Our boat, docked several slips away by the small cruisers, didn’t offer a working toilet. I needed to find a spot to relieve myself in the water, and I didn’t want to explain my predicament to a houseboat-owning tycoon.

Relieving oneself at sea is rarely dignified. Even luxury cruisers offer heads — the nautical name for toilets — that regurgitate anything larger than Kleenex. Richard, the captain of Southern Lifestyles, was proud, however: he boasted plans to install an incinerating toilet.

He described incinerary flushing with the flair of a pastry chef lighting bananas foster.

“You go,” he explained, presumably referring to bodily functions, “and with the push of a button, it incinerates everything inside. Just turns it to ashes.” It would cost him a mere $800.

Since my bladder was nagging me, as was the fact that my husband had refused to replace our defunct toilet, the flaming toilet piqued my interest.

“So…” I chose my words carefully, more accustomed to talking about poop with other mothers of toddlers than with wealthy boat owners, ” How long does it take to fill up with…ashes? And how do you get the ashes out?”

“That’s the best part,” Richard answered, leaning forward and carefully balancing a cigar well above the upholstery. “You just toss it overboard. Marvelous, isn’t it?” Then he leaned back and flicked cigar ashes over the rail as if to demonstrate.

I stared at the cigar for an unblinking moment, trying to meld Richard-the-real-estate-tycoon with the man who looked forward to tossing his own poop overboard.

I made a mental note to  avoid any wafting ashes if I relieved myself in the waters below Southern Lifestyles.

I felt a blooming kinship with Richard, though, like two parents who could, years later, sit back and laugh about the days their babies screamed with colic. Maybe my husband and I weren’t just too poor, or too cheap, to own a decent boat toilet. Maybe all boaters share the burden of an awkward poo.

When my husband and I purchased our first cabin cruiser, a water-worn 1977 Trojan Express in Arkansas, I gazed at the toilet with hands clasped in anticipation. We had never owned a boat with a toilet. No more zooming to the dock with a cramping gut. No more peeing in the lake in a bikini.

My inaugural flush, however, blew the head’s fuse. After a long first weekend aboard, multiple flushes, and four blown fuses, my husband informed me that my bodily habits were not fuse worthy.

We eventually upgraded to a used, but newer, Maxum 2700 SCR, a cruiser with the Taj Mahal of boat heads. Sparkling white fiberglass stretched to a six-foot ceiling, and a private porthole allowed sea gazing from its throne.

It didn’t matter than no one above a size 14 could squeeze through the entry door, or that squatting required bracing one hand against the wall, slinging one arm over the sink, and lowering in perfect symmetry to avoid banging a hip into the electrical panel. It was a sparkling, clean, working, fuseless toilet.

Flushing, however, was less than graceful. Muscular plunges forced lake water into the bowl, and reverse muscular plunges delivered it to a holding tank. A small sticker above the head indicated you could press a button to “macerate solids” which I suspect is the boating industry’s elitist spin on “grinding poop.”

The process felt something like giving CPR to an unresponsive patient while standing in an unplugged refrigerator. The head must not have liked the process either, the entire time screaming an ear-grating eeeh-haw eeh-haw eeeh-haw….

Presumably, our dock mates never realized why, every few hours, and more often on a day that involved beer, it sounded like I was in the cabin beating a donkey.

Then the head rebelled. It regurgitated water from the holding tank, leaving a bowl of murkish water that scented our boat like a campsite bathroom on the 4th of July. My husband, who had never been fond of waste floating somewhere in the bowels of his beloved boat, fiddled mysteriously with the toilet for an hour, then proclaimed it unfixable and off-limits.

Determined to not return to lake-peeing, I mastered the art of peeing in a cup. Peeing in a cup is possible, but challenging, and seems fundamentally wrong for a person with at least enough money to buy a (used) cabin cruiser in the first place.

My mood had dampened earlier that summer when another Maxum, shinier and newer than ours, docked beside us. I could see it through the bathroom porthole as I straddled my cup, knowing the wife of its owner was possibly, at that very moment, sitting on a working toilet.

Sometimes I misplaced the pee cup, so I’d grab another. This set in motion a gradual depletion of drinking cups, a problem my husband suspected was passive aggressive sabotage. One morning, he peered out the cabin door to ask, “What’s happened to all our cups?”

“Oh,” I answered, contemplating for a minute. “I think I’ve peed on all of them.”

He looked at me as if I’d morphed into a dog.

Perhaps I had resorted to animalistic behavior, but it was on the night Richard taught me how, if I spent $800, I too could burn poop, I felt the calm realization that boaters, rich and poor, sacrifice some comfort in order to spend nights being gently rocked by waves.

That same night, after returning from the leather and teak-drenched Southern Lifestyles and settling on the familiar and soft seat of our cruiser, I heard it. Eeeh-haw……eeeh-haw…..

I searched the bobbing gunwales, trying to locate the source.

Eeeh-haw…eeeeh-haw…eeeh-haw!

The sound grew to a squeal.

I turned to the shiny, sleek, newer, perfect Maxum docked beside us — could it be?

Yes, I realized.. The shiny cruiser’s donkey was squealing, and soon the real estate developer would be dumping his burned poo overboard.

Did it matter I had to pee in a cup to enjoy floating vacations? Not really, I decided. Marine heads, after all, a great equalizer among the boating classes.

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Boat Karma

13 Aug

l laugh at superstition.

So why do my fingers hesitate, hovering above the computer keyboard as if they letters might have morphed into hot coals as I prepare to write about my cabin cruiser, Summer Dawn?

Making peace with the Summer Dawn

Unlike me, sailors are notoriously superstitious. They throw salt over their shoulders, whistle into the wind, Christen new vessels with champagne pricier than they’d dare purchase for a drink, and stage elaborate boat renaming ceremonies. Boat renaming, probably the most exhausting of boat superstitions, requires every reference to the original name be removed or destroyed, after which the owner completes a complex set of steps too exhaustive to explain in this post.

Our 1994 Maxim cabin cruiser came to us named Tom Kat, obviously inappropriate for our family boating plans, so we renamed it, not knowing at the time about the renaming ceremony requirements and figuring the boating spirits would understand.

Within the first month of ownership, the boat’s bilge pumps went out, toilet revolted, oil pump nearly exploded, baffles leaked, and was unfixable until being trailered three times to a mechanic.

Purely coincidence.

The next summer, we learned to co-exist with the boat, which had adjusted to her new name.

Then I started a blog.

My husband implored me to not speak badly of our boat. You must treat boats kindly, he explained. Take care of them. Talk nicely to them. Boats have souls, he explained.

I contemplated whether I should explain to him that people living in the Bible Belt don’t say things like “boats have souls” unless they want crosses burned on their front yards.

So I ignored him and I started my blog. Then I promptly broke my right foot, sprained my left ankle, contracted H.Pylori, ignited the wrath of two normally docile co-workers, lost my weekly housekeeper due to an unexplained illness, lost the advice of a fellow writer due to illness, lost the advice of a journalist friend due to unexpected surgery, rushed my daughter to he emergency room for the first time in her life, took my daughter back to the doctor for an allergic reaction to the antibiotic prescribed by the ER, and was the recipient of someone’s drunken prank to smear human excrement all over my car at the marina.

I was writing a humorous blog about marine toilets when the excrement thing happened.

But I don’t believe in superstition.

On the other hand, that funny story about our (fantastic perfect wonderful) boat can probably wait.

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Maho Bay: An Icon Falls on St. John, USVI (This month's coconugget)

26 Jul

Two short days after discovering Bob Davis, an aging St. John icon with whimsy and character, had passed away, I learned another St. John icon is falling.

Beloved Maho Bay resort, leafy and green, quaint and quirky, aging but grounded in the northern hills of St. John, is coming down.

Doesn’t it seem counterintuitive that an eco lodge — which became an eco lodge before eco lodges were cool — would come down at a time when pop culture tosses around phrases like  ”sustainable living” “responsible tourism” and “go green?”

A view near Maho Bay St. John USVI

To add insult to injury, Maho is (was?) a pleasantly simple establishment set on a history-rich string of beaches along the western coast of St. John. From Rockefeller’s donation of land to U.S. National Park system….to the history of the Gibney family who’s home remains on Gibney beach…to the unpretentious Caneel Bay…to Oppenheimer’s beach house, several treasures remain along the sands.

But Maho may not. And if Mayo goes, a modern luxury resort could go up.

People like to find places that feel like the “old Caribbean.” In the Americanized and tourist-stuffed U.S. Virgin Islands, this stretch of land was, at least, a reprieve from the over-polished side of the Caribbean.

                     *                                               *                                               *
A group of citizens has initiated an effort to save Maho. If interested, please visit one of the “Save Maho” pages on Facebook.

Author’s note: “CocoNuggets” are informative pieces I insert between my quirkier blogs.

 

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Maho Bay: An Icon Falls on St. John, USVI (This month’s coconugget)

26 Jul

Two short days after discovering Bob Davis, an aging St. John icon with whimsy and character, had passed away, I learned another St. John icon is falling.

Beloved Maho Bay resort, leafy and green, quaint and quirky, aging but grounded in the northern hills of St. John, is coming down.

Doesn’t it seem counterintuitive that an eco lodge — which became an eco lodge before eco lodges were cool — would come down at a time when pop culture tosses around phrases like  ”sustainable living” “responsible tourism” and “go green?”

A view near Maho Bay St. John USVI

To add insult to injury, Maho is (was?) a pleasantly simple establishment set on a history-rich string of beaches along the western coast of St. John. From Rockefeller’s donation of land to U.S. National Park system….to the history of the Gibney family who’s home remains on Gibney beach…to the unpretentious Caneel Bay…to Oppenheimer’s beach house, several treasures remain along the sands.

But Maho may not. And if Mayo goes, a modern luxury resort could go up.

People like to find places that feel like the “old Caribbean.” In the Americanized and tourist-stuffed U.S. Virgin Islands, this stretch of land was, at least, a reprieve from the over-polished side of the Caribbean.

                     *                                               *                                               *
A group of citizens has initiated an effort to save Maho. If interested, please visit one of the “Save Maho” pages on Facebook.

Author’s note: “CocoNuggets” are informative pieces I insert between my quirkier blogs.

 

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Remembering Bob Davis — Photographer, Reverend, Artist

25 Jul

http://www.stjohnbeachweddings.com/Bob-Davis.htm

A friend of mine is getting married on St. John, so I decided to look up the reverend who re-married (yes, re-married) me and my husband on Maho beach.

 I sadly discovered that he passed away last year.

Bob not only married us, he drove us to Skinny Legs for an impromptu wedding reception and introduced us to his  friends.  The next day, he took us out on his colorful boat to a mangrove reef for snorkeling. (And we almost got eaten by a barracuda, but that’s another story.)

Bob's friends and the owner of Skinny Legs toasted champagne with us after the Maho Bay beach wedding

We returned to St. John the next year and saw Bob’s boat, but were unsuccessful locating him during that trip. I wish we’d found him. What an interesting man and interesting life.

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